Lesson 10 Fixing Your Plaster Right
Once you have practiced the texture you want to do and are ready to start putting it on, there is something important you need to be aware of. Lap Marks!
You are applying wall texture over a porous surface most likely, unless you chose to put on drywall PVA sealer on the wall or ceiling first. Of course, if you primed before you start texturing, you will have a slick surface, which will affect how your texture goes on.
I will be talking here about a solid continuous kind of texture application, which will have no skips or open areas in it.
A porous plaster or drywall surface will grab moisture from your texture mix as you apply it and move across the surface. This has the effect of stiffening the texture that is in place. As you move across a wall, for examply, the leading edge is where you may have some concern.
You can’t be in all places at the same time. When the edge of your texture advance sits there while you are working elsewhere, it is stiffening. When you come back to continue that part of the texture line, you may have difficulty getting the “new” texture to blend perfectly with the “old.”
You may experience a problem getting a flawless blend. The result will be a visible wavy line called a “lap mark.”
So, how do we avoid getting lap marks”
One is to prime the area to be textured first and then wait a day to start the texture process. But even here, you cannot leave that texture until you have textured the whole surface. If this is the apporach you want to take, then be sure you practice your texturing technique on a primed or painted surface before you start the real thing. That way, you get a realistic feel for the process.
Another way to avoid a lap mark is by going very fast. Easier said than done, but not impossible. A third way to get around a potential lap mark problem is to choose something other than a solid, no skips type of texture. On my website, I talk about some of these kinds of textures. The “skip trowel” is onc such texture.
What about additives to a texture mix? Some people like a little sand in the texture finish. You can find white quartz sand in different particle sizes at masonry supply houses and some lumber yards. Check your local Lowes and Home Depot. Some of those may have these products.
The open skip trowel texture has thirty mesh white sand in it.
I have some photos of some popular textures I do for clients. Skip trowel is the third.
I hope you can see them well enough to get an idea.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/wall-texture-samples.html
The best way to learn how to apply texture is to see a professional at work With that in mind, I have prepared a DvD where I demonstrate how to do several wall texturing techniques. I also discuss tools and mixing texture compounds.
This page has more helpful information about doing textures and links to a page you can access my texturing history and my DvD.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/wall-texture.html
Drywall and plaster texturing work can be quite fulfilling. You can be the artist and win the compliments of your neighbors and friend (and, we hope, of family as well).
Tuesday, March 17, 2015
Thursday, March 12, 2015
Make Your Old Walls Beautiful With New Texture
Lesson 8
Repair Your Plaster Right by avoiding the common mistake of tackling your texture project before you have done the necessary practicing.
Hello. Are you still with me?
.How are you doing? Yes, you are getting a lot of information in this little mini-course. Take your time, and absorb it as you can. If you find questions arising, shoot me an email here: http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/plaster-site-contact.html I'll do my best to get back to you right away.
Now we are getting into the fun stuff - putting on a beautiful texture effect over that old repaired plaster wall or ceiling.
But ... I need to mention first one thing that you may not have considered. New texture is best applied over a smooth surface. If that old plaster wall or ceiling that you have repaired is rough, you really should skim coat the whole thing BEFORE you start putting on texture.
Why? Well, for the simple reason that new texture applied directly over old texture (unless the old stuff is real light) will most probably allow the old texture to shadow through as your texture mud dries. With a smoothed surface, then, the old texture is buried and will not spoil your new texture look.
For a quick view of how to apply skim coat, check out:
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/skim-coat.html
I understand you may be eager to get going on the texture process. You've worked hard getting your plaster repaired, and patches primed. Now you want to be the artist and make that old plaster shine like new! Putting frosting on the cake Michelangelo, move over.
Well, you will do it. But ... hold your horses a moment, pardner ... let's go into this with our eyes wide open. Do you really know what you are doing ... already?
Unless you have done wall or ceiling texture work before and are pretty confident in your skills, it would be a very good idea to get in some PRACTICE first.
The purpose of practicing is obvious, really. You want to get a feel for mixing and applying your texture before you tackle your own plaster. This way, when you do start, you will already know what you want to do.
So your practice time is experimentation time. You try different mixes of material, you try out different tools, you try out different strokes or ways of working the texture mud with your tools. You are familiarizing yourself with everything until you feel comfortable with what you want to do and believe you can do it on a large(er) scale.
You are practicing on practice boards. You could invest in a sheet of drywall and set it up against a wall where you try out different things. Painted plywood could also be used. You put something on, scrape it off, try something else, etc. It's actually a lot of fun. Get wild, be creative. And when you can say - Aha! THAT's what I like - then you have to ask yourself - can I do that over the whole ceiling or wall?
I had the good fortune myself in my beginning days to watch a master craftsman at work applying gorgeous textures to newly finished drywall. He made it look easy. And he taught me. With some practice (in the closets and garages of the houses we were doing) I got pretty good at it, fairly quickly. And I make no claim to being an "artist."
But I made a very good living for many years doing plaster renovation and custom texture work.
Some customers have hired me to give them lessons, because they are thrilled at the idea of doing their own texture work after I have finished my repair/renovation part.
So, if you are a little adventurous and would like to think about doing your own texturing, here are a couple of suggestions.
First, read my webpage which covers the whole texturing thing pretty thoroughly. It has some important heads-up info, and points you to a few photos of textures.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/wall-texture.html
Next, if you would like to see "live demonstrations" of mixing and applying simple but beautiful textures, you can head over to my promo page where I tell some things about my own experience with texturing for clients ... and, if you mosey on down the page, you can see where my DVD is available.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/wall-texturing-techniques.html
Ordering is easy, and I ship by parcel post within one or two days of receiving your order. You have my rock solid 60 day money back guarantee of satisfaction.
-----------------------------------------
Repair Your Plaster Right by avoiding the common mistake of tackling your texture project before you have done the necessary practicing.
Hello. Are you still with me?
.How are you doing? Yes, you are getting a lot of information in this little mini-course. Take your time, and absorb it as you can. If you find questions arising, shoot me an email here: http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/plaster-site-contact.html I'll do my best to get back to you right away.
Now we are getting into the fun stuff - putting on a beautiful texture effect over that old repaired plaster wall or ceiling.
But ... I need to mention first one thing that you may not have considered. New texture is best applied over a smooth surface. If that old plaster wall or ceiling that you have repaired is rough, you really should skim coat the whole thing BEFORE you start putting on texture.
Why? Well, for the simple reason that new texture applied directly over old texture (unless the old stuff is real light) will most probably allow the old texture to shadow through as your texture mud dries. With a smoothed surface, then, the old texture is buried and will not spoil your new texture look.
For a quick view of how to apply skim coat, check out:
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/skim-coat.html
I understand you may be eager to get going on the texture process. You've worked hard getting your plaster repaired, and patches primed. Now you want to be the artist and make that old plaster shine like new! Putting frosting on the cake Michelangelo, move over.
Well, you will do it. But ... hold your horses a moment, pardner ... let's go into this with our eyes wide open. Do you really know what you are doing ... already?
Unless you have done wall or ceiling texture work before and are pretty confident in your skills, it would be a very good idea to get in some PRACTICE first.
The purpose of practicing is obvious, really. You want to get a feel for mixing and applying your texture before you tackle your own plaster. This way, when you do start, you will already know what you want to do.
So your practice time is experimentation time. You try different mixes of material, you try out different tools, you try out different strokes or ways of working the texture mud with your tools. You are familiarizing yourself with everything until you feel comfortable with what you want to do and believe you can do it on a large(er) scale.
You are practicing on practice boards. You could invest in a sheet of drywall and set it up against a wall where you try out different things. Painted plywood could also be used. You put something on, scrape it off, try something else, etc. It's actually a lot of fun. Get wild, be creative. And when you can say - Aha! THAT's what I like - then you have to ask yourself - can I do that over the whole ceiling or wall?
I had the good fortune myself in my beginning days to watch a master craftsman at work applying gorgeous textures to newly finished drywall. He made it look easy. And he taught me. With some practice (in the closets and garages of the houses we were doing) I got pretty good at it, fairly quickly. And I make no claim to being an "artist."
But I made a very good living for many years doing plaster renovation and custom texture work.
Some customers have hired me to give them lessons, because they are thrilled at the idea of doing their own texture work after I have finished my repair/renovation part.
So, if you are a little adventurous and would like to think about doing your own texturing, here are a couple of suggestions.
First, read my webpage which covers the whole texturing thing pretty thoroughly. It has some important heads-up info, and points you to a few photos of textures.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/wall-texture.html
Next, if you would like to see "live demonstrations" of mixing and applying simple but beautiful textures, you can head over to my promo page where I tell some things about my own experience with texturing for clients ... and, if you mosey on down the page, you can see where my DVD is available.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/wall-texturing-techniques.html
Ordering is easy, and I ship by parcel post within one or two days of receiving your order. You have my rock solid 60 day money back guarantee of satisfaction.
-----------------------------------------
Using Drywall Primer Correctly
Lesson 7
Using Drywall Primer Correctly
Repairing old plaster walls correctly involves making decision regarding drywall primer. Common mistake number 6 is neglecting to use drywall primer at all, or using it incorrectly.
So now, I want take up the issue of drywall primer. I am talking about so-called PVA primer.
This stuff is designed to soak into raw drywall or plaster materials and lock up the pores of these surfaces so the paint coat will look good.
That's the theory. Do it wrong and your paint coat will NOT look good.
Raw plaster (the real stuff) is highly absorbent. It will really suck in the PVA primer. Here, I recommend two coats of primer, so you can be sure that it is doing its job. On finished drywall or plaster patches using drywall compound, one good coat is usually enough, though two can't hurt. If you are unsure, go two coats.
(Caution. Use drywall primer only over raw materials, not over painted surfaces. If you should have a wall that was stripped of wallpaper, clean off all glue residues. Only prime areas where the glue is thin but won’t come off with scrubbing . . . .or where the paint has come off.)
The secret for a good primer coat is -- don't skimp. Put plenty on and roll it out well (no ridges or blobs). And, NO SKIPS! (They will really show up after you finish painting.) I always caution my customers about the importance of drywall primer and how to put it on correctly. I tell them to roll it out well and don't skimp. Then after it dries, go over it carefully with a light in hand and then brush in any skipped areas. (Painters call these "holidays".)
All this is especially true over any smooth finished surface. These are the hardest to paint well. So doing a thorough job of priming (and watching out for leaving ridges of primer with the roller edges) is critical for getting a nice looking paint job later.
A splotchy coat of primer will cause the first paint coat to look uneven in terms of its shine. This is why I stress consistency.
PVA primer does not always adhere well to old paint, so only your plaster patches should be primed (unless you've skimcoated the whole wall or ceiling). Don't extend the primer out much beyond the edge of your patches. There are some varieties of drywall primer (non-PVA?) that will stick well to paint, so check with your paint store. Read what it says on the can regarding adhesion to paint. But ordinarily, there is no need to put drywall primer over old paint. It doesn't need primer (if the old paint is stable).
Don't use any oil based primer over your raw patching materials, and don't use primer designed for wood. Again, read the can. For simplicity, just stick with PVA.
PVA primer comes in thinner and thicker grades. I usually choose a medium grade, and it seems to work fine.
Last couple of things. Don't thin your primer. If you do that, it won't yield good results. Secondly, don't expect your prime coat to end up looking like a finished paint coat. Primer, depending on the grade you buy, often only has enough pigment to make it white enough that you can see where you are going as you roll it out. Over drywall, for example, you can sometimes still see the joints after you prime. They will show a little whiter than the exposed paper areas. That's okay. It doesn't mean you did anything wrong.
Tip: if you are going to paint with color, have the paint store tint your primer to match. This makes priming a lot easier for consistency. But if you are only going to be spot priming patched areas, it may not make sense to change the color of the primer.
Another Thought: It may be that you could use some home decorating tips after repairing that old plaster, which is after all just step one in your plaster restoration process. Some eyesores are gone, at least those on walls and ceilings.
But there's a lot more to think about. Paint colors and effects. Maybe new window treatments. New lighting fixtures? Different pictures on the wall, or a different arrangement. Wallpaper? Lots of decisions. Home decorating can be overwhelming.
That's why I'm very excited to introduce a "first of its kind" resource that will not only help you decorate your home according to your personality, lifestyle, and goals...
But it will help you do it easier and faster than ever before!
The resource that I'm referring to is called The Awaken Your Interior Designer! Collection. Written by interior decorating experts, these will help you resolve your decorating questions and get the look and feel YOU want.
Check it out at Home Decorating Tips and see if this can help you move ahead in your decision making process. http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/home-decorating-tips.html
Enough for now!
----------------------------------------
Next time, we'll get into the subject of texturing over your repaired plaster surfaces. See if I can help you avoid another ommon mistake, which is rushing into the job without taking enough time to practice and experiment.
Using Drywall Primer Correctly
Repairing old plaster walls correctly involves making decision regarding drywall primer. Common mistake number 6 is neglecting to use drywall primer at all, or using it incorrectly.
So now, I want take up the issue of drywall primer. I am talking about so-called PVA primer.
This stuff is designed to soak into raw drywall or plaster materials and lock up the pores of these surfaces so the paint coat will look good.
That's the theory. Do it wrong and your paint coat will NOT look good.
Raw plaster (the real stuff) is highly absorbent. It will really suck in the PVA primer. Here, I recommend two coats of primer, so you can be sure that it is doing its job. On finished drywall or plaster patches using drywall compound, one good coat is usually enough, though two can't hurt. If you are unsure, go two coats.
(Caution. Use drywall primer only over raw materials, not over painted surfaces. If you should have a wall that was stripped of wallpaper, clean off all glue residues. Only prime areas where the glue is thin but won’t come off with scrubbing . . . .or where the paint has come off.)
The secret for a good primer coat is -- don't skimp. Put plenty on and roll it out well (no ridges or blobs). And, NO SKIPS! (They will really show up after you finish painting.) I always caution my customers about the importance of drywall primer and how to put it on correctly. I tell them to roll it out well and don't skimp. Then after it dries, go over it carefully with a light in hand and then brush in any skipped areas. (Painters call these "holidays".)
All this is especially true over any smooth finished surface. These are the hardest to paint well. So doing a thorough job of priming (and watching out for leaving ridges of primer with the roller edges) is critical for getting a nice looking paint job later.
A splotchy coat of primer will cause the first paint coat to look uneven in terms of its shine. This is why I stress consistency.
PVA primer does not always adhere well to old paint, so only your plaster patches should be primed (unless you've skimcoated the whole wall or ceiling). Don't extend the primer out much beyond the edge of your patches. There are some varieties of drywall primer (non-PVA?) that will stick well to paint, so check with your paint store. Read what it says on the can regarding adhesion to paint. But ordinarily, there is no need to put drywall primer over old paint. It doesn't need primer (if the old paint is stable).
Don't use any oil based primer over your raw patching materials, and don't use primer designed for wood. Again, read the can. For simplicity, just stick with PVA.
PVA primer comes in thinner and thicker grades. I usually choose a medium grade, and it seems to work fine.
Last couple of things. Don't thin your primer. If you do that, it won't yield good results. Secondly, don't expect your prime coat to end up looking like a finished paint coat. Primer, depending on the grade you buy, often only has enough pigment to make it white enough that you can see where you are going as you roll it out. Over drywall, for example, you can sometimes still see the joints after you prime. They will show a little whiter than the exposed paper areas. That's okay. It doesn't mean you did anything wrong.
Tip: if you are going to paint with color, have the paint store tint your primer to match. This makes priming a lot easier for consistency. But if you are only going to be spot priming patched areas, it may not make sense to change the color of the primer.
Another Thought: It may be that you could use some home decorating tips after repairing that old plaster, which is after all just step one in your plaster restoration process. Some eyesores are gone, at least those on walls and ceilings.
But there's a lot more to think about. Paint colors and effects. Maybe new window treatments. New lighting fixtures? Different pictures on the wall, or a different arrangement. Wallpaper? Lots of decisions. Home decorating can be overwhelming.
That's why I'm very excited to introduce a "first of its kind" resource that will not only help you decorate your home according to your personality, lifestyle, and goals...
But it will help you do it easier and faster than ever before!
The resource that I'm referring to is called The Awaken Your Interior Designer! Collection. Written by interior decorating experts, these will help you resolve your decorating questions and get the look and feel YOU want.
Check it out at Home Decorating Tips and see if this can help you move ahead in your decision making process. http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/home-decorating-tips.html
Enough for now!
----------------------------------------
Next time, we'll get into the subject of texturing over your repaired plaster surfaces. See if I can help you avoid another ommon mistake, which is rushing into the job without taking enough time to practice and experiment.
Wednesday, March 11, 2015
How To Fill Large Plaster Holes Over Wood Lath
Lesson 4
How To Fill Large Holes Over Wood Lath The Right Way
(Avoiding The Common Mistake of trying to fill with joint compound)
If you have an older home in America, your old plaster may have been applied over wood lath. When plaster comes loose and leaves a hole behind, you can see the lath.
Some people grab some drywall mud and try to fill the recess with that. NOT a good idea!
A much better way is one I use when doing work for my clients. Old plaster is usually one quarter to three-eighths inch thick. And it can often vary in thickness over a short space. So my rule of thumb would be to get a sheet of quarter-inch drywall and cut a piece that will fill the hole.
You may find that your plaster around the hole is a little thicker than that. You want the drywall patch you insert to be level with the surrounding plaster.
So how do you get it that way?
My trick involves the use of hot mud. (Remember, we’re talking about quick set joint compound) I put big gobs of hot mud on the back of the drywall piece, press it gently into place so it is more or less level all around. Now give the hot mud time to harden. Then put in a few drywall screws here and there (through the areas where the hot mud is) and your patch is secure.
Now fill around the edges with more hot mud. When that is hard, apply drywall paper tape on the perimeter of the patch and apply two or more topping coats as needed to hide the tape and get the patch blended in.
For a full discussion of how this is done, check out the webpage on plaster wall repair..
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/plaster-wall-repair.html
So ... why doesn't it work just to fill the plaster hole with joint compound?
Drywall compound cannot be applied very thick; it shrinks too much. You would have to apply many successive layers to build up to the thickness of the plaster. Each layer has to take a day or more to dry before the next layer goes in. So you see how a simple repair stretches out for days.
A Postscript ------ If you don’t have access to thin (quarter inch) drywall, you could insert a thin
piece of plywood instead. But you will need to coat the front and back with an oil based wood
primer first, to render it impervious to the moisture in the patching compounds. Let it dry thoroughly before you insert the plywood.
Alternatively, if the old plaster is three-eighths of an inch thick, just get a piece of drywall of the same thickness and use that to fill in the plaster gap.
Your patching still has more steps. You will have to reinforce where the patch meets the plaster. So, use the sheetrock if you can get it. It's a lot faster and less trouble. Okay?
---------------------------------
Next lesson, we'll learn how to use hot mud in the right way, and avoid common mistakes.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com
How To Fill Large Holes Over Wood Lath The Right Way
(Avoiding The Common Mistake of trying to fill with joint compound)
If you have an older home in America, your old plaster may have been applied over wood lath. When plaster comes loose and leaves a hole behind, you can see the lath.
Some people grab some drywall mud and try to fill the recess with that. NOT a good idea!
A much better way is one I use when doing work for my clients. Old plaster is usually one quarter to three-eighths inch thick. And it can often vary in thickness over a short space. So my rule of thumb would be to get a sheet of quarter-inch drywall and cut a piece that will fill the hole.
You may find that your plaster around the hole is a little thicker than that. You want the drywall patch you insert to be level with the surrounding plaster.
So how do you get it that way?
My trick involves the use of hot mud. (Remember, we’re talking about quick set joint compound) I put big gobs of hot mud on the back of the drywall piece, press it gently into place so it is more or less level all around. Now give the hot mud time to harden. Then put in a few drywall screws here and there (through the areas where the hot mud is) and your patch is secure.
Now fill around the edges with more hot mud. When that is hard, apply drywall paper tape on the perimeter of the patch and apply two or more topping coats as needed to hide the tape and get the patch blended in.
For a full discussion of how this is done, check out the webpage on plaster wall repair..
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/plaster-wall-repair.html
So ... why doesn't it work just to fill the plaster hole with joint compound?
Drywall compound cannot be applied very thick; it shrinks too much. You would have to apply many successive layers to build up to the thickness of the plaster. Each layer has to take a day or more to dry before the next layer goes in. So you see how a simple repair stretches out for days.
A Postscript ------ If you don’t have access to thin (quarter inch) drywall, you could insert a thin
piece of plywood instead. But you will need to coat the front and back with an oil based wood
primer first, to render it impervious to the moisture in the patching compounds. Let it dry thoroughly before you insert the plywood.
Alternatively, if the old plaster is three-eighths of an inch thick, just get a piece of drywall of the same thickness and use that to fill in the plaster gap.
Your patching still has more steps. You will have to reinforce where the patch meets the plaster. So, use the sheetrock if you can get it. It's a lot faster and less trouble. Okay?
---------------------------------
Next lesson, we'll learn how to use hot mud in the right way, and avoid common mistakes.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com
What kind of plaster repair materials should I use?
Lesson 3
Now we will discuss the right kind of plaster repair materials to use.
A plasterer will use plaster compounds to repair plaster. That's okay for the professional who understands plaster and knows the right way to use it.
But for our purposes, using drywall finishing materials is much easier. They are readily available and "mistakes" can be fairly easily corrected. Dried drywall compound can be wetted and scraped off and the area redone if necessary. So drywall joint muds are more forgiving for the novice plaster repair person.
Drywall muds come in many flavors. What I recommend is the all-purpose (also known as multi-purpose) joint compounds. All-purpose means it can be used to stick down the tape, overcoat the tape and with thinning can even be used to apply texture with. So it is versatile.
Avoid "topping" compounds. You don't really need them, and they are only good for topping applications, not taping.
All purpose muds come in full strength and in lightweight versions. You can use either one, although I like the full strength varieties more, since they are tougher. Just a little harder to sand when dry.
There is also "hot mud," special quick-setting joint compounds. These have special advantages, but also some limitations. I'll talk about those in another lesson.
One last note. Plaster of paris (sometimes called patching plaster) can be used to fill deep divots in plaster. It also works when small holes up to two or three inches wide appear in old plaster where the wood lath is exposed. If you choose to use it for these situations, just be sure to dampen the wood lath first. And when the patching plaster is hard, wipe off the excess right away that may have spilled over onto the painted area surrounding the patch.
Plaster of paris sets up FAST, so mix small amounts and use it immediately.
If you can a hairline crack around the perimeter of the patch after the plaster of paris sets up,
just fill that afterwords with your finger tip. Wipe clean and smooth.
--------------------------------------
Next time, we will explore the right way to fill in large holes in old plaster where the wood lath is showing behind, avoiding common mistakes often made in this kind of plaster patching problem.
Tuesday, March 10, 2015
Common Mistake #2 Not Using The Right Reinforcement
Lesson 2
How To Repair Your Plaster Right. Common Mistake #2 Not Using The Right Reinforcement
Now I want to talk about insurance. Not the medical, life or car kind. I am referring to the insurance (assurance) that comes when you use reinforcement - and the right kind of reinforcement - to strengthen your plaster patches.
How many times have you, or others you know, used the "finger and spackle" trick to repair plaster cracks before a new coat of paint? And what was the result? Probably, in many or even most cases, those cracks appeared again in a few months. Am I right?
The reason is that the crack was only filled, not stablelized. Many plaster cracks are somewhat dynamic. They may move ever so slightly once in a while, enough anyway so that they show up again after you have filled and painted over them.
What you need to do to keep this from happening is simple. You need to apply a adhesive bridge across that crack to stop its movement. And the best way to do that is most cases is to lay down a strip of drywall tape over the crack, glued to the plaster in a thin bed of drywall compound, and then covered. In essence, you are treating the plaster crack like a drywall seam.
If you have never used drywall compound and paper tape before, that's okay. It's not that hard. You can check out the tutorial page on my website about taping plaster cracks.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/wall-crack-repair.html
Some people recommend the self adhesive fiberglass tape for plaster and drywall repair. In my professional opinion, a big mistake. I have made a lot of money over the years repairing "repairs" made with fiberglass tape. The paper tape is a little trickier to use right, but is superior for most crack repair.
I discuss the virtues of drywall paper tape versus fiberglass tape on the website.
By using the right tape, and skimming it correctly, you can have the assurance that your plaster cracks will (in most cases) stay closed and out of sight.
-----------------------------------
How To Repair Your Plaster Right. Common Mistake #2 Not Using The Right Reinforcement
Now I want to talk about insurance. Not the medical, life or car kind. I am referring to the insurance (assurance) that comes when you use reinforcement - and the right kind of reinforcement - to strengthen your plaster patches.
How many times have you, or others you know, used the "finger and spackle" trick to repair plaster cracks before a new coat of paint? And what was the result? Probably, in many or even most cases, those cracks appeared again in a few months. Am I right?
The reason is that the crack was only filled, not stablelized. Many plaster cracks are somewhat dynamic. They may move ever so slightly once in a while, enough anyway so that they show up again after you have filled and painted over them.
What you need to do to keep this from happening is simple. You need to apply a adhesive bridge across that crack to stop its movement. And the best way to do that is most cases is to lay down a strip of drywall tape over the crack, glued to the plaster in a thin bed of drywall compound, and then covered. In essence, you are treating the plaster crack like a drywall seam.
If you have never used drywall compound and paper tape before, that's okay. It's not that hard. You can check out the tutorial page on my website about taping plaster cracks.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/wall-crack-repair.html
Some people recommend the self adhesive fiberglass tape for plaster and drywall repair. In my professional opinion, a big mistake. I have made a lot of money over the years repairing "repairs" made with fiberglass tape. The paper tape is a little trickier to use right, but is superior for most crack repair.
I discuss the virtues of drywall paper tape versus fiberglass tape on the website.
By using the right tape, and skimming it correctly, you can have the assurance that your plaster cracks will (in most cases) stay closed and out of sight.
-----------------------------------
. Common Mistake #1 Not Preparing The Plaster Surface Properly
Hello again and welcome to Lesson #1.
Today, we will deal with the first mistake that people sometimes make when they rush into fixing their plaster problems. Inadequate preparation of the plaster surface (or none at all).
For your plaster repair to be permanent, the plaster surface you are working over must be free of anything that might interfere with the adhesion of your plaster repair materials.
In other words, if your plaster is dirty, has cleaning agent residues, or has flaking, crumbling or powdery material, you need to solve those problems FIRST before you put any "mud" on that surface.
Let's deal with these one at a time.
----- dirt. In a house that might have had dogs or children, the areas near the floor may have smudges, body oil and so on. I recently replastered the walls in a 1950's house that had dogs living in the house. In two of the bedrooms, the lower walls were noticeably darkened by the dogs rubbing against the plaster, probably for years. It took a lot of scrubbing to get it off.
Check around light switches, wall plugs and other areas where fingers often come in contact with the plaster. Also around heat vents. Be especially vigilant around food prep areas.
----- cleaning residues A great and cheap cleaning agent is TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). It's a powder that you dissolve in water, and does a great job removing dirt, oils, soap, etc. The only drawback is that you must clean rinse the plaster surface well to get rid of the residues. Use a sponge and change your water frequently.
In general, it would be a good idea to wash down any plaster wall before repair, with at least a minimum of warm clean water. Notice if your water darkens. That would be a good sign that you are disturbing the dirt or smoke residues that may not always be easy to see.
----- unstable plaster surface Here we are talking about problems caused mainly by water.. A plaster ceiling or wall will show signs of flaking, powdering or staining when water is coming into it from behind. Find the source of the water intrusion, and get that fixed before you try to fix your plaster. Check the roof, gutters, and plumbing for leaks. Also, around windows on the weather sides of the house.
Loose material of any sort must be removed. To learn more about dealing with water-damaged plaster, you can read my article in Ezine Articles.
I am listed as an expert author there.
Sometimes you may have a plaster ceiling that is sagging badly. In some cases, you have to remove the bad area completely and then patch in the blanks.
This is treated completely on my website where I discuss drooping ceilings.
These basic plaster repair pointers will enable you to provide a good foundation for the next stages of
your plaster renovation project.
Today, we will deal with the first mistake that people sometimes make when they rush into fixing their plaster problems. Inadequate preparation of the plaster surface (or none at all).
For your plaster repair to be permanent, the plaster surface you are working over must be free of anything that might interfere with the adhesion of your plaster repair materials.
In other words, if your plaster is dirty, has cleaning agent residues, or has flaking, crumbling or powdery material, you need to solve those problems FIRST before you put any "mud" on that surface.
Let's deal with these one at a time.
----- dirt. In a house that might have had dogs or children, the areas near the floor may have smudges, body oil and so on. I recently replastered the walls in a 1950's house that had dogs living in the house. In two of the bedrooms, the lower walls were noticeably darkened by the dogs rubbing against the plaster, probably for years. It took a lot of scrubbing to get it off.
Check around light switches, wall plugs and other areas where fingers often come in contact with the plaster. Also around heat vents. Be especially vigilant around food prep areas.
----- cleaning residues A great and cheap cleaning agent is TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). It's a powder that you dissolve in water, and does a great job removing dirt, oils, soap, etc. The only drawback is that you must clean rinse the plaster surface well to get rid of the residues. Use a sponge and change your water frequently.
In general, it would be a good idea to wash down any plaster wall before repair, with at least a minimum of warm clean water. Notice if your water darkens. That would be a good sign that you are disturbing the dirt or smoke residues that may not always be easy to see.
----- unstable plaster surface Here we are talking about problems caused mainly by water.. A plaster ceiling or wall will show signs of flaking, powdering or staining when water is coming into it from behind. Find the source of the water intrusion, and get that fixed before you try to fix your plaster. Check the roof, gutters, and plumbing for leaks. Also, around windows on the weather sides of the house.
Loose material of any sort must be removed. To learn more about dealing with water-damaged plaster, you can read my article in Ezine Articles.
I am listed as an expert author there.
Sometimes you may have a plaster ceiling that is sagging badly. In some cases, you have to remove the bad area completely and then patch in the blanks.
This is treated completely on my website where I discuss drooping ceilings.
These basic plaster repair pointers will enable you to provide a good foundation for the next stages of
your plaster renovation project.
How to fix plaster walls. An Introduction
Welcome to my blog. This post and the following posts are designed to show you how to repair your plaster problems the right way (while avoiding a minimum of ten common mistakes people make in this area.)
First of all, congratulations on your desire to repair that plaster of yours and make it look good.
Your desire to make a CHANGE is the first step in the process of beautifying the plaster walls and ceilings of your home.
The second step is to decide if you are going to fix that plaster yourself ... or employ the services of a professional.
Many will choose to use the pro, and that is a good decision. That way, you can avoid the potential aggravation and mess of trying to do it yourself. You exchange your money for a job well done, you hope, and if all goes well your headache is resolved by someone else.
You can even do an online search to find recommended plaster contractors in your area and get free, no-obligation bids of your project.
However, maybe you are an adventurous person and you like doing stuff for yourself. Not just to save money, but you like the great feeling you get when you fix something, it works and it looks good. Alright!
My website and all the information there is addressed to someone like you, someone who can follow directions and get a result that works and looks good.
I have been in the plaster repair and renovation business for over 40 years. Story. I want to let you in on a little secret. PLASTER REPAIR AIN'T ROCKET SCIENCE!!! What most people lack is good information. The manual skills themselves are not hard to acquire. Information, motivation and practice - all three taken together - can yield nice results ... and pride in a job well done.
My purpose in this series of instructional messages, then, is to give you a heads-up on potential mistakes you might make if you rush into fixing your plaster. I know this happens. People contact me through the website all the time with problems that developed when they started with inadequate information.
This little mini-course will walk you through some basic processes regarding how to approach plaster problems. Of course, it will not be enough all by itself but will point you in the right direction. The website information, however, is pretty complete. I will send you to the appropriate pages to round out your information as we proceed.
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com
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Next ... we will talk about Common Mistake #1 - not preparing the plaster surface properly before starting the plaster repairs.
To Your Success
Edwin Brown aka plasterguy
http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com
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